Discover the Winery:Champagne Pierre Gerbais
Champagne Pierre Gerbais are a family grower based in the Celles-sur-Ource, the confluence of 4 river valleys in the Côte de Bar. The area is often considered a secondary zone of Champagne, to the very south-east and at equal distance to Epernay in the heart of Champagne, as it is to Beaune in Burgundy.
Given the proximity therefore of schooling, many here choose Burgundy to study viticulture and winemaking, partly down to the ongoing rivalry between the north and south of Champagne! Aurélien Gerbais is one such example, counting on a number of Burgundian vigneron as both peers and mentors. This has had a direct influence to his approach in the vineyard, approach in the cellar and ethos around the range, which has evolved to focus on single vineyard bottlings.
The soils too, are different to the chalky north of Champagne. Here, the soils resemble that found in Chablis, on clay and limestone. Gerbais has been organic since the 90s, and work with old vines. They are particularly known for their inclusion of Pinot Blanc, some of the oldest vineyard in all Champagne at circa 80 years age. In the cellar, they work with minimal sulphur additions.
As Champagne sales following WW2 really took off, Aurélien’s Grandfather avoided the luxury trappings of wealth and invested smartly in vineyards, taking the holdings up to 18ha. They also purchased vineyard on the then less desirable north facing slopes of the river. In the face of climate change, these sites are becoming increasingly prized. As is Pinot Blanc (more resilient to humidity), which the family concealed from the Champagne association, at a time when the Big Brands were demanding local growers here plant Pinot Noir. A demand that makes little sense to Aurélien, with a terroir so primed for Chardonnay cultivation.
93 points Robert Parker
